Two weeks ago, Carmen and I left Chennai for our trek across India. I was more nervous than excited, trying to remember that first trek that began my time in India.
Our first destination was Hampi. Hampi is an old temple town that is home to what seems like hundreds of temples and shrines scattered among and atop giant piles of rock and boulder. Most lay in ruins after they were destroyed during a seize over a century ago. Despite the disfigured statues and withering temples, the Muslims were not able to destroy the uniqueness of this landscape. The "mountains" are composed of a pile of what appears loosely and sporadically stacked boulders. Gaps appear in the middle of the massive boulders creating what looks like holes in the mountain. It honestly looks like someone forgot to break down the set after filming Indiana Jones. Still by the last day, I caught myself saying, "It just doesn't look real." The only explanation we could find for how this landscape formed was the old Hindu belief that the gods had hurled rocks from the sky to show their strength. That's good enough for me.
This was the most adventurous part of our trip. Only having three days there, we packed our days full of visiting temples, climbing rocks, and dining by the river. All the while getting around by motorbikes. After a five second tutorial on how to start, stop, and go, we were off with no helmets and no paperwork spelling out who was at fault when this turned out to be a bad idea. Luckily I escaped my first moto ride with a mere blister and really dirty feet. Despite the heat, we spent our days out exploring because our non AC room with a sorry excuse for a fan barely provided any relief at night. By then we'd be so exhausted from the day's heat we found it easy to sleep in the sticky heat with the sound of monkeys fighting outside our room.
I learned that I'm terrified of monkeys. Going to the zoo will never be the same.
An overnight bus took us to our next destination: Arambol, Goa. Nothing too significant about this location except for one major factor. It is a beach. Let's call this chapter of my trip Spring Break. For five days my daily routine was breakfast, beach, dinner, bed, repeat. Only with slight variations to visit the local market. Our beach hut was nestled in the middle of the rocky hill that wrapped the edge of the beach and only cost me a whopping $4 a night. Minimal time was spent there for I was too occupied laying in the sun and finishing a book I found at a small used bookstore, The Godfather. The only word that can describe Goa: uneventful. But after three months of Chennai, this is the most beautiful word I've ever heard.
A plane and a per usual eventful bus ride put us in Pushkar, Rajasthan. The town itself is situated around a small lake. The streets wind and circle with small alleys in between tall buildings. The view from the top of our guesthouse showed temples and mosques breaking out of the cluster of buildings that are nestled in the middle of tall rocky hills. At night, the moon and the stars hanging just above the cityscape and the evening call to prayer filling the air create a scene straight from Aladdin. Minus the magic carpets of course.
Again, we settled for more relaxation rather than adventure, but we did decide to do the much talked about camel trek. It's advised when visiting Rajasthan to find a camel safari tour guide and arrange a trek out to the desert to spend a night under the stars. A first this was the plan, but once we realized that the only people out in the desert would be two girls and our guides, we decided to come back that night. However, a few lessons were learned during that short trek. The first being: Camels are huge. I don't know why I figured I would only be a few feet from the ground like a horse, but the moment he stood up I realized my foot was dangling well above our guide's head. Secondly: Camel saddles are not the most comfortable things in the world. Especially when you get a little trot going. I honestly don't understand how men do it. After the first hour and a half out to the village where we would be dining, I was done with camel riding. My back, butt and inside of my thighs were so sore I didn't know how I was going to bring myself to get back on for the trek home. And lastly: It's best, if possible, to check the emotional stability of your guide before embarking to ensure he doesn't drown his misery of a recent breakup with bottle of whiskey. While waiting on the family to cook us dinner, one of our guides proceeded to drink an entire bottle of whiskey on his own. As the night got later and later, we kept asking to leave, but was only answered with, "One more chai," and then more stories of ex-girlfriend. Finally, at 9:45, we left and I struggled onto the back of my camel. He told us first it would take an hour and a half to return, but after expressing our concern for not arriving too late, he assured us he'd have us back soon. We did not realize this meant riding the camels at full speed through the pitch black desert. Multiple times I thought I was going to fly off as I caught air off every gallop, yet our guide did not pick up on our concert. All I could hear through the rushing wind was, "Fly so high!"
We made it back in 30 minutes.
I'm not sure there are laws against drunk camel driving, but I assure you it is equally as terrifying in a car. My souvenirs from Pushkar include swollen thighs, a bruised butt, sore arms and hands, and a nice burn from the friction of my leg against the saddle.
The ride to Dharamsala was just as nerve wracking as the camel. Our driver threw this 40 foot bus around curves and mountain roads I'd be terrified to attempt in my Honda. I slept little. We reached Dharamsala before the sun. The fog hanging around the tops of mountains revealing only bits of the snow covered tops. I instantly felt at home. When the bus doors opened the cool breeze blew in and I gladly slipped on my jacket. My heart swelled as I took in the surrounding peaks, my excitement rising to meet this high elevation. The Himalayas may have a the Appalachians beat by a few thousand feet, but I swear they're just as majestic. This is what I've been waiting for. A horizon uninterrupted by buildings, just fading peaks into sky. The view from Rose Cafe where I sit and write won't let me go. The town is built into the side of the ridge, hundreds of prayer flags blowing from every roof. I only have a few days here. Soon Carmen and I will part for the first time in three months. I'm truly going to miss her. I think she is the first person I have spent nearly every waking moment with for such a long time. But I'm ready to experience something new on my own. I'm ready for the small rural life of Kanda. As much as I miss Boone, I'm starting to learn I can find my home on any ridgeline.
Our first destination was Hampi. Hampi is an old temple town that is home to what seems like hundreds of temples and shrines scattered among and atop giant piles of rock and boulder. Most lay in ruins after they were destroyed during a seize over a century ago. Despite the disfigured statues and withering temples, the Muslims were not able to destroy the uniqueness of this landscape. The "mountains" are composed of a pile of what appears loosely and sporadically stacked boulders. Gaps appear in the middle of the massive boulders creating what looks like holes in the mountain. It honestly looks like someone forgot to break down the set after filming Indiana Jones. Still by the last day, I caught myself saying, "It just doesn't look real." The only explanation we could find for how this landscape formed was the old Hindu belief that the gods had hurled rocks from the sky to show their strength. That's good enough for me.
This was the most adventurous part of our trip. Only having three days there, we packed our days full of visiting temples, climbing rocks, and dining by the river. All the while getting around by motorbikes. After a five second tutorial on how to start, stop, and go, we were off with no helmets and no paperwork spelling out who was at fault when this turned out to be a bad idea. Luckily I escaped my first moto ride with a mere blister and really dirty feet. Despite the heat, we spent our days out exploring because our non AC room with a sorry excuse for a fan barely provided any relief at night. By then we'd be so exhausted from the day's heat we found it easy to sleep in the sticky heat with the sound of monkeys fighting outside our room.
I learned that I'm terrified of monkeys. Going to the zoo will never be the same.
An overnight bus took us to our next destination: Arambol, Goa. Nothing too significant about this location except for one major factor. It is a beach. Let's call this chapter of my trip Spring Break. For five days my daily routine was breakfast, beach, dinner, bed, repeat. Only with slight variations to visit the local market. Our beach hut was nestled in the middle of the rocky hill that wrapped the edge of the beach and only cost me a whopping $4 a night. Minimal time was spent there for I was too occupied laying in the sun and finishing a book I found at a small used bookstore, The Godfather. The only word that can describe Goa: uneventful. But after three months of Chennai, this is the most beautiful word I've ever heard.
Again, we settled for more relaxation rather than adventure, but we did decide to do the much talked about camel trek. It's advised when visiting Rajasthan to find a camel safari tour guide and arrange a trek out to the desert to spend a night under the stars. A first this was the plan, but once we realized that the only people out in the desert would be two girls and our guides, we decided to come back that night. However, a few lessons were learned during that short trek. The first being: Camels are huge. I don't know why I figured I would only be a few feet from the ground like a horse, but the moment he stood up I realized my foot was dangling well above our guide's head. Secondly: Camel saddles are not the most comfortable things in the world. Especially when you get a little trot going. I honestly don't understand how men do it. After the first hour and a half out to the village where we would be dining, I was done with camel riding. My back, butt and inside of my thighs were so sore I didn't know how I was going to bring myself to get back on for the trek home. And lastly: It's best, if possible, to check the emotional stability of your guide before embarking to ensure he doesn't drown his misery of a recent breakup with bottle of whiskey. While waiting on the family to cook us dinner, one of our guides proceeded to drink an entire bottle of whiskey on his own. As the night got later and later, we kept asking to leave, but was only answered with, "One more chai," and then more stories of ex-girlfriend. Finally, at 9:45, we left and I struggled onto the back of my camel. He told us first it would take an hour and a half to return, but after expressing our concern for not arriving too late, he assured us he'd have us back soon. We did not realize this meant riding the camels at full speed through the pitch black desert. Multiple times I thought I was going to fly off as I caught air off every gallop, yet our guide did not pick up on our concert. All I could hear through the rushing wind was, "Fly so high!"
We made it back in 30 minutes.
I'm not sure there are laws against drunk camel driving, but I assure you it is equally as terrifying in a car. My souvenirs from Pushkar include swollen thighs, a bruised butt, sore arms and hands, and a nice burn from the friction of my leg against the saddle.
The ride to Dharamsala was just as nerve wracking as the camel. Our driver threw this 40 foot bus around curves and mountain roads I'd be terrified to attempt in my Honda. I slept little. We reached Dharamsala before the sun. The fog hanging around the tops of mountains revealing only bits of the snow covered tops. I instantly felt at home. When the bus doors opened the cool breeze blew in and I gladly slipped on my jacket. My heart swelled as I took in the surrounding peaks, my excitement rising to meet this high elevation. The Himalayas may have a the Appalachians beat by a few thousand feet, but I swear they're just as majestic. This is what I've been waiting for. A horizon uninterrupted by buildings, just fading peaks into sky. The view from Rose Cafe where I sit and write won't let me go. The town is built into the side of the ridge, hundreds of prayer flags blowing from every roof. I only have a few days here. Soon Carmen and I will part for the first time in three months. I'm truly going to miss her. I think she is the first person I have spent nearly every waking moment with for such a long time. But I'm ready to experience something new on my own. I'm ready for the small rural life of Kanda. As much as I miss Boone, I'm starting to learn I can find my home on any ridgeline.